British Virgin Islands 2018

There's that one particular harbor…

Spindrift II is in the Slip

We’re back from another week of sailing in the BVI. This year was another Moorings 4600, Spindrift II. Such a great boat. We had a fabulous week, with the best winds I’ve ever had – averaging 15 knots all week long and some sustained sailing under 16 and 17 knot winds as well. We pretty much made 8 or 9 knots everywhere we went. The weather was great. The food was excellent. The crew a fun to be with.

A couple of notes on new things we tried. We stopped at Fallen Jerusalem on our first day out. Although we stopped here in 2006 with our sailing instructor, we hadn’t ever been there on one of our own bareboat charters. The first time we went our instructor was stung by a jelly and went into anaphylactic shock. This time there was no such drama, but there was just nothing there to see. Leslie and I agreed we won’t go back there. We returned to Flash of Beauty, Loblolly Bay on Anegada, but this time the bar was open! That was a first. I got a card from the owner who said to call her next time if the place is closed and she’ll come open it for us. For the first time on any of the trips I’ve made we didn’t eat at Quito’s while overnighting in Cane Garden. Instead we went down to Myetts. The food was fine, but the band was turned up so loud (and not very good) that we didn’t have a very good dinner experience. Our waitress was awesome – great personality and lots of fun – so that made up for it some. But there wasn’t much conversation because you had to really shout to be heard. I think it would have been great to be there without a band playing. We swung by White Bay on Jost the next day and it was insanely busy. We didn’t even enter the channel – just turned around and set sail for Soper’s for the overnight. We had to tack a bit, but the wind was great and it was good sailing. This is the third time I’ve overnighted in Soper’s. The first was with my first skipper, Keith Berger and we ate at The Jolly Roger. The second was with my own crew in 2010 and we ate at Pusser’s because I’d heard that the JR had seriously gone down hill. This time I asked a local working at Voyage Yacht Charters where she recommended and she said the JR had indeed suffered, but had bounced back and that we should try it. We did and with no regrets. Very glad to say that it was as good or better than the JR I visited in 2004. She also told us, however, that it may be closing soon for good. So that might have been our last meal at the JR. We also tried a (new to us) restaurant once back in Road Town. C and F Restaurant is one I’ve heard a lot about. Our skipper had been there years ago and wanted to return, so we did for our last dinner. The food was fine and I think I’d be willing to return. They have this gift shop that has to be experienced. It’s like it closed in the 1970s and no one has entered it since. Kind of an eery place. If you visit, look for the framed photo of a donkey labelled, “Local Donkey of the BVI”. If I could have gotten it home it would have become mine.

The only other major change was that crew arrived on Friday and we departed the Moorings on Saturday. This couldn’t be avoided because of crew schedules, but let me tell you – I will never do that again. Travel to and from was horrible – especially C&I on St. Thomas when we were returning. We missed the Friday night seafood buffet at Bitter End, which is a favorite of mine. The Moorings was working hard to service us well, but they were a bit overwhelmed during Saturday departures. It was a noticeable difference and one I won’t repeat. We usually have crew arrive on a Wednesday and we depart the Moorings on Thursday. We then return the boat on a Wednesday and return home on Thursday. Much more peaceful.

All in all an excellent trip!


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